Buying/Selling/Trading/Auction - PART III SELLING

For Toy-related Newsgroups

Frequently Asked Questions & Posting Guide

Developed and Maintained by Eric G. Myers & Scott J. Gordon

Version 2.0 - 6/98

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FAQ Index | General | Buying | Selling | Trading | Auctions



SELLING


Q3.1: Where should I post my ad?
A3.1: In selling items, just as in real estate, the 3 most important 
things are: Location, Location, and Location. You want your ad to be seen 
by a receptive and enthusiastic audience. You do not want to annoy 
potential customers or look like a newbie either. 

First and foremost, crossposting between rec.toys.action-figures.marketplace
and rec.toys.action-figures.discuss is strictly prohibited. These two 
newsgroups were created to separate marketplace and discussion posts.
If you do crosspost, you will most likely be met with a number of e-mails
advising you of your mistake. Marketplace posts are explicitly off-charter
in rec.toys.action-figures.discuss.

So, selecting the appropriate place to post is the first, and possibly 
most important, decision for you to make. There are several other 
newsgroups in this hierarchy. Each caters to a particular group of 
collectors. In addition, there are several sister newsgroups in other 
hierarchies that also deal with toys in one capacity or another 
(e.g., rec.arts.sf.starwars.collecting or  rec.collecting.dolls). 

Should you post to all of them? Absolutely not! 

Its best to pick the most appropriate group and only post there. However, 
if you have a varied selection of items for sale, you might cross over 
into more than one category. If you have 300 action-figures for sale and 
5 Hotwheels, then don't crosspost the whole list to both the action 
figure newsgroup and the cars newsgroup. Consider splitting the list into 
two posts and posting each appropriately. It is reasonably well-tolerated 
to crosspost sales items to other groups as long as sale posts are 
permitted on those groups. Choose wisely.

Q3.2: How often should I post my ad?
A3.2: You should not post the same ad any more frequently than weekly.
There is not enough readership turnover to justify posting your ad daily.
Frequent reposts are a waste of bandwidth and often irritate your
potential customers. Remember, Usenet news posts remain on most
servers for *at least* a week (and in most cases, quite longer). There is
no need to repost an ad daily. Also, those who post repeated ads often
find their way into killfiles. You can't sell to someone who doesn't see
any of your posts.  Auction updates may be an exception and may be
posted more frequently (see Q5.5).

Q3.3: How should I compose a good subject line?
A3.3: A clear subject line is the best bait for getting people to read 
your ad. Unclear, vague or irrelevant subject lines will often get your 
ad ignored. Use the appropriate abbreviations (e.g., FS, AUCTION, WTT, 
etc see Q1.5 ). Then use a brief yet descriptive phrase to entice your 
readers. The more specific the better. Here are some examples of good and 
bad subject lines:
 
          Bad:      Action figures
          Good:    FS: Action figures: Marvel, DC, SW, Spawn

          Bad:      Old Toys
          Good:    FS: '50's & '60's Tin Toys 

          Bad:    Auction
          Good:  AUCTION: GI Joe: Figures, Accessories, Vehicles

Avoid using non-alphanumeric characters in your subject lines. Don't
use these types of characters to set you post apart. Many newsreaders
truncate subject lines to shorter lengths. Therefore, a subject line 
that was intended to read like this:

     Subject: ###############Action Figures FS!#############

Could end up looking like this on some newsreaders:

     Subject: ###############

This makes sense to no one and are often ignored by readers. Also, the
use of non-alphanumeric characters or special characters to make your
posts stand out or be listed first on newsreaders that sort 
alphabetically is frowned upon. They only call attention to the fact 
you're trying to call attention to yourself. These types of practices 
often get "killfiled" by a large segment of the readership. Being 
"killfiled" means that these types of posts are automatically screened 
out and discarded without ever having been seen by the reader. Remember, 
a good subject line is your chance to make a first impression. Make it 
count.

Q3.4: Should I set a price, let people make offers, or conduct an 
auction?
A3.4:  This is really a matter of personal choice. Some factors you may
want to consider include the time you have to invest in selling the items
you have and the price you wish to get for your items. Straight sales are
the simplest in regard to time investment. You set a price and wait for
an offer. Letting people e-mail you offers is a bit more involved. Its
important to note that many people won't even respond to your ad if
they don't have an idea about the price of the item in question. In
addition, people may underbid what they would actually pay if the item
had a price on it (who doesn't want a bargain?). So, having people
e-mail you bids can easily turn into a miniature auction. Having people
e-mail bids may be the best mode of action if you are truly unsure about
the value of the item yet are unwilling to conduct a full-blown auction.

Keep in mind that while you may only have one figure to sell right now,
you may acquire others later -- treat everyone who responds to your ad
with courtesy, even if you feel they are making exaggeratedly low
offers; they may turn out to be people whose business you'd like later on
down the road, and some people have long  memories.  Courtesy goes a
VERY long way!
 
An auction is quite a bit more involved than a straight sale. Auctions
involve a significant time investment and a good deal of organization to
be run effectively. See the section on Auctions below for more specifics
on running an effective auction.

Q3.5: Shouldn't I post each item I have separately?
A3.5: No. Repeated posts for single items by the same seller are 
considered poor netiquette and are a waste of bandwidth. As a seller, 
you want to be as considerate and thoughtful of your potential customers 
as you can. Annoying readers with multiple posting may get you noticed, 
but not necessarily in a positive way. Wasting bandwidth like this often 
attracts negative comments (flames).

Q3.6:  How should I package and ship toys I'm selling or trading?
A3.6: This  is  an important question and one that has  many  legitimate
answers.   Just keep in mind that the sender is responsible for making
sure that the item(s) arrive in good condition.  Much of this depends
on the toy itself.  The first component is a good sturdy box (Loose 
figures can sometimes be shipped via padded envelope without
problems).  I suggest NOT using the 'Priority Mail' boxes supplied at
the Post Office.  These have a tendency to flatten out during shipping.  
I suggest finding some type of  box made from at least some
corrugated cardboard.  For  larger items, boxes from liquor stores
work exceptionally well (and they are free...a definite   plus!).  Choose 
a box size that will accommodate the item without having to bend, 
fold or otherwise  damage the toy package.  

Next you need to consider some type of packing material.  The most
frequently used material is obviously newspaper.  This can work 
effectively if you use some common sense.  Since most action figures
(as well as many other toys)  have 'bubbles' it is important not to
crush the bubble with your packing material.  You want the packing 
material to surround the entire item without crushing it.  The goal is to
keep it in place and provide extra cushioning should the package end
up underneath a stack of heavy boxes during shipping.  Remember, you
are not stuffing a turkey.  Crumpling newspaper works well when
used carefully.  Rolling newspaper into 'logs' can also work but takes
some practice to pack an item securely.   The next level up from
newspaper would be bubble wrap or styrofoam 'peanuts.'  Each of these
methods has its own ups and downs and is really a matter of preference
and your own experiences.   Go with what works for you.  Bubble
wrap can be an extra expense but does provide good protection if 
used in sufficient quantity.  Peanuts also provide excellent
protection and are usually quite cheaply available.   Remember to be 
careful with the use of tape on the inside of the box or with packing 
material.  Tape that  is applied to a toy package may not be easily
removed. Its also a good idea to put the item you are shipping in some
type of plastic bag (like a plastic grocery bag or Toy R Us bag) before
putting it in shipping material. The bag will help protect the toy from
being damaged by the shipping material (i.e., ink from newsprint,
styrofoam getting inside bubbles, etc.).

Once  you  have  the item  snugly in the box,  seal  the  box  with
appropriate  packing  tape.   Regular  thin Scotch tape is  usually
ineffective unless  used in large quantities. Make sure the address  is 
legible and written  preferably in dark,   block  letters.  Don't forget
to include your  own return address.   If a  mix up occurs with the
delivery address,  you want the item to come back to you rather than the
dead letter office.

Now  you need to pick a delivery service.  You have several to choose 
from.  The standard is the United States Postal  Service.  Currently you
may send up to two pounds via Two-Day Priority Mail  for  $3.00.  
This is usually sufficient to ship one or two action figures in a 
suitable box with appropriate  shipping  materials.  Occasionally you 
will have to pay a little  more  depending  on various factors including 
the type of item, the size of box and the type of packing materials used.   
The next most used service  is  UPS.  This costs a  little bit more but 
delivery  is  generally reliable.  In  addition, UPS insures all packages
for a standard amount  (you  may increase this amount for a fee -  [see 
Q3.7]).  

Lastly,  there are many overnight shipping services (Federal Express, 
DHL,  etc.)   that  can be used to get a package somewhere  in a hurry.  
This is probably the least used method for  shipping due to cost
involved.

Last   but   not  least,   its always nice to e-mail the package receiver 
letting  him or her know that the package is in the mail.  Also  politely 
ask  that  they drop you a quick note  letting  you  know when the 
figures arrive.  With  luck and good planning, you will have made a 
successful shipment.

Q3.7: Should I insure packages?
A3.7: There is some controversy regarding this issue.  However,  if the
buyer  wants  to pay  for insurance on top of all other agreed  terms of 
your deal, by all means get the insurance requested.  If you are 
shipping an item of exceptional value (suggestions have ranged  from 25 
dollars on up through  250 as minimum  values for obtaining  insurance...
a happy medium might  be  50-100  dollar value).   Here are some of  the 
controversies.  First,   insurance will  often only cover the ACTUAL
value of an item  as opposed  to the   PERCEIVED  value.   What  that 
means is that if you  are shipping  the  latest, currently  shipping but
rare  Spew(tm) figure     (let's  say Hamburger  Head Angela with
Specked Panties),  it may only be worth what you paid for it retail. It
doesn't matter that someone  sent  you $50 for it.   For  insurance 
purposes  it  will  probably be  worth  retail  price.  However,  there  
are  some exceptions.  If  you have  an  appraisal of value  from some
reputable source, you may be able to get more  back on an insurance
claim.  This is very difficult with currently available/shipping figures. 
No matter the rarity, if its currently available, its probably valued at
retail price. Even with older figures, sometimes  an  appraisal is not
acknowledged by insurance.  If you have questions, contact your local
postmaster.

Second  controversy:   Insurance may only cover the toy inside  the
package  and  NOT  the  package itself.   Many people collect  MOMC 
(see   Q1.5).   However,  if the card  or bubble is damaged in shipping 
and  the  figure  is left   intact,   insurance  may  not reimburse  you.  
Again, check with your local postmaster if  you have questions.

In short, insurance is a matter of choice. Know what is covered and then 
decide for yourself.   Remember,   if the package you send to  someone
else does not arrive or arrives damaged,  netiquette states that the
shipper is responsible for making amends.

Q3.8:  Why isn't there a rec.toys.marketplace group?
A3.8:  A group (or hierarchy) such as this has been suggested repeatedly 
in the past.  There is a rec.toys.action-figures.marektplace group but it is 
not appropriate to post items other than action figures. 

To date, no group for the entire hierarchy  has been formally proposed. 
However, several individuals are actively investigating the best way to 
implement a marketplace to serve the hierarchy and its individual groups 
most effectively. If you are interested in contributing your time (and 
patience) to this lengthy and involved endeavor, contact Eric G. Myers
([email protected]) for further details.

Q3.9: Someone sent me a really nasty e-mail in response to my ad? What
did I do to deserve this?
A3.9: In all likelihood, you didn't do anything. No one should be rude in
response to an ad. However, given the recent state of affairs in regard 
to the "Scalper vs. The Price Police" (see Q above) many times tempers
flare. Some of the things that have been known to attract overtly hostile
responses have included:

- If you post in the wrong place (i.e., rec.toys.action-figures.discuss)
you will receive some e-mail pointing out your mistake
- Ads for currently available items priced 2-5 times the retail price
- Ads with high prices that appear out of line with the majority of other 
  ads on the newsgroup
- Ads with misleading or false information
- Ads for off-topic items (e.g., comics, cards, video games, etc)
- Ads that quote guide prices as gospel
- Ads with subject lines containing words like "CHEAP!" or "RARE!"
   when neither is the case.
- Repeatedly posting the same ad daily or more frequently
- Posting multiple ads for individual or small groups of items

The best piece of advice is to look at other ads selling the same (or
similar) items. This make take some time as not all items are advertised
with the same frequency. A little familiarity with your target audience
(i.e., the readers of the newsgroup) will go a long way to avoiding
problems in the future. 

The bottom line is that no one should be rude, nasty or insulting in
response to an ad no matter what the content happens to be. That
doesn't mean that you shouldn't expect negative responses if your post
contains misleading or false information. It just means that there are 
civil ways to express one's displeasure.

Q3.10: What is "undercutting?" Is this an acceptable practice?
A3.10: The term "undercutting" refers to the practice of following up
another seller's ad post with your own post for the same item for sale 
at a lower price. This practice has been somewhat controversial and
probably requires some careful consideration before you try it. A
common misconception regarding undercutting is that the undercut
somehow tampers with or interferes with the original seller's ad. This 
is wholly incorrect. A follow-up may quote material from the original ad
post, but the original post itself is left untouched just like any other 
post on a newsgroup. Objections seem to be raised primarily over the
etiquette involved in the practice of undercutting. Some people feel it 
is distasteful, rude or unethical to quote from someone else's ad when
offering a lower price. Others feel that posting an undercut as a
follow-up is actually desirable because it takes advantage of the
threading of many newsreaders (i.e., putting related messages together
in a cluster or thread). Several other newsgroups have had debates and
straw polls regarding the issue of undercutting (this is not a new
practice or issue). Almost always, the vote has been in favor of the
practice of undercutting. While it may be distasteful to some, it may be
of benefit to others. Ultimately, the buyer is the beneficiary of an
undercut post. And the original seller is always free to counter with an
under-undercut. The easiest way to avoid being undercut is not to place
a price in your ad. Of course, this has its disadvantages as well (see 
Q3.4).