Disclaimer

Index

General

Paints and Painting

Sculpting Materials

Specifics

The Answers

General

A1: There are many reasons why a person might embark on the adventures of customizing. By far, the most common reason is a desire to make an action figure of a particular character that does not yet exist. Many people have diverse tastes that can not all be catered to by the major toy companies. Even today, when companies like Toy Biz and McFarlane are pumping out figures by the bushel, there are still those characters that will not get produced.
In some cases, customizers desire to improve upon an existing figure. Often it is the little details that separate a good figure from a great figure. Adding those little details can sometimes make a drastic improvement in the presentation of an action figure.

Still other customizers seek to repair or correct painting flaws or other problems or omissions found in both current and vintage toys. The motivations for customizing are as vaired as the customizers themselves. It is a creative outlet and a great extension of the toy collecting hobby.

Q2: I'm not very creative or artistic. Can I make custom figures?

A2: Customizing an action figure need not involve hours of intense sculpting and minature detail painting. Customizing can be as simple as changing an X-Men Phoenix figure into a Dark Phoenix figure by painting the green parts red. The parts that need painted are marked like paint-by-numbers. Just fill in the blanks. Similarly, adding details to an action figure can be exceedingly simple. The level of complexity depends on your comfort level, experience and imagination. You may want to start simply and then experiment as you become more experienced.

Q3: How do I start the customization process?

A3: All you need is an idea and a desire to experiment and create. If you wish to make a figure that has not been created, the first thing you need to decide is which figure or character you would like to create. Inspiration can come from almost anywhere: comic books, movies, television or even your imagination. Even if you are repairing a figure or adding details to an already produced figure, it may be helpful to consult photographs, comics or other visual source materials for ideas and details. Remember, details often make the figure.

Q4: What is a base figure? What is a target figure?

A4: For the purposes of this FAQ, we need to establish some terminology. A base figure is an existing action figure or toy that is used as a "base" on which to begin your customization. A target figure is the character you wish to make and is the end result (hopefully) of the customization process.

Q5: How do I select a figure to work with or customize?

A5:For the purposes of this question, we will assume that you have chosen to make a character figure from an already existing figure. For example, I wished to make the character Mystique from the X-Men comics. This is not a figure that has (as of this writing) been produced by Toy Biz who holds the license for this character. The first thing to do is to select an already produced figure to alter. This may seem like a no-brainer, but it is an important aspect of the customization process. Changing a Phoenix to a Dark Phoenix is quite a bit different than creating a figure that does not exist. I had originally chosen a Phoenix figure to serve as the base for my Mystique customization. However, it was pointed out to me (by a helpful r.t.m.'er) that a Spiderwoman (from the Iron Man line) might be a better choice. I cannot stress this point enough: Take your time in selecting a base figure.

There are several issues to consider when choosing a base figure to begin your customization. First, you must consider the scale of the figure you wish to produce. Do you want to display your finished figures with related figures? I wanted to make a Mystique figure to go with a display I have of other X-Men villains. Therefore, I wanted the finished figure to be in the same scale as the existing figures and needed to find a base figure of similar proportions. Scale refers to the relative size of figures. For example, Spawn figures are done on a 6" base scale, while most older Toy Biz figures are done on a 5" scale. Some Kenner figures are done on a 4.5" scale, as are Playmates' Star Trek figures. Of course, there are notable exceptions: Toy Biz and Kenner are doing some 6" scale figure assortments (like the Onslaught, Avengers, and Legends of the Dark Knight lines), and Playmates Star Trek: First Contact line was their first 6" scale line. Using figures in the same scale will help assure that their relative height and proportion are correct.

Another consideration is how much articulation you want your finished figure to have. Some customization techniques can limit (or eliminate) a figure's articulation. If you only wish to display your creation, then this may be of little concern.

When you begin the search for figures to use as a base for customization, you may wish to begin with figures from the same toy line or related toy lines. For example, if your wish is to create an Image comics character, then you might be best served by beginning your search in the McFarlane Toys line of figures. Often, related figures will have features that will aid in creating your new figure (e.g., scale). Next, you will want to see if there is an existing figure that shares distiguishing characteristics with your target figure. For example, if you want to make a female character, it may be best to select a female base figure. This can be especially important if the female target has long hair, breasts, a slim waist or any number of other characteristics as these feature are often already present on existing female figures.

It is not always necessary to use a closely related figure for your base figure. Be creative and try to look beyond what is present and try to see the possibilities.

You might want to refer to the article XXXX for more information on selecting a base figure.

Q6: What materials do I need to customize a figure? Where can I get them?

A6: There are no universal rules in regard to the supplies you will need to complete your project. Much of what you will need depends on the scope of your project. However, good planning can save a lot of headaches later on. If you even have an inkling that you might need an item, then its best to have in on hand before you think you will need it.

Here is a list of some of the more popular items you might consider: Remember, anything that works is fair game.

Modelling Substances (for adding details, sculpting, and/or accessories)
Testors Modeling Putty
Sculpy, Fimo, or other heat-curing clays
2-part epoxy clays like Milliput or plumber's clay Air drying clays like Das Pronto

Tools
Exacto knife, with replacement blades
Sand paper (various grain)
Tweezers
Clothes pins
Masking tape (good quality recommended)
Paint brushes (various sizes)
Toothpicks
A hot glue gun with a fine tip
Epoxy, Super Glue, etc.
Aluminum Foil
Dremel Moto Tool or other motorized tool.

Paint (varies depending on the base figure and desired result)
Enamel Model Paint (flat or gloss depending on desired effect) by companies like Testors, Humbrol, etc.
Acrylic/water-based paint, like Tamiya, etc.
Spray paint (like Krylon primer, etc.)
Thinner

Other
Newspaper or other material to protect your work surface. If you are like many of us, you end up working at the kitchen table or similar location. Many of the substances you will be working with are messy and can leave horrible and sometimes permanent stains. Be smart and protect your work area. If you need an example, ask me about the time I spilled green model paint on the coffee table
Rags
Paper Towels
Toothpicks
Craft sticks/popsicle sticks
Etc.

Most of these items can be found at your local craft shop or hardware store. There are several chain stores, such as Michael's, Crafts Etc., and Hobby Lobby, that carry arts and crafts supplies. Occasionally, you may need to go to a specialty store to locate some item. Look for a smaller hobby store that concentrates more on scale modeling and model railroads, as they will often have things a place like Michael's doesn't carry. One such store that is a chain is Hobbytown USA, although there are countless "mom-n-pop" hobby stores around the world.

Paints and painting

Q7: What type of paint should I use?

A7: This is the single most frequently asked question regarding the customization of action figures. Unfortunately, the is no single correct answer. The best answer would have to be: It Depends.

For most plastic action figures currently produced (e.g., ToyBiz, Kenner, etc.) Testors (or similar) enamel model paint works best. A flat enamel is recommended rather than a gloss enamel (look carefully at the little bottles). Flat enamels do not dry dull or matted looking on these figures. They retain a sheen similar to the original paint job in luster. Using gloss paints may be appropriate depending on the effect that you wish to achieve. Gloss paints have an "ultra-sheen" look and often do not blend well with original paint details. Gloss paints may be most useable if you plan to paint the entire figure. However, if you want to leave some of the figure with its original paint (or plastic) showing, flat colors are the only way to go (e.g., converting the Phoenix to the Dark Phoenix). To get a feel for both types of paint, you might want to experiment on a test figure. You may need to apply a primer coat to your figure prior to painting because sometimes enamel paints remain "tacky" when applied to action figures. See the next question for details.

The most notable and somewhat controversial exception to the guidelines above is in the case of the heads of Megos figures. Mego was a company founded by Marty Abrahms in the 1970's and enjoyed success with such lines as Star Trek, Planet of the Apes and The World's Greatest Superheroes. These figures are still highly sought after today. Many collectors (myself included) have used the old Mego figures as base figures for customizations. However, there are some things that you should think about before painting a Mego, especially the head.

The heads on the old Mego figures were made of a firm rubber, not plastic. It has been reported that when Testors enamel model paint is used on a rubber Mego head, the coat of paint may remain tacky and not dry completely. Some people advocate water based or acrylic paints for painting these heads.

My own experience has involved both types of paints. In using a Mego Spiderman from 1974, I did several test coats on the back of the figure's head before commencing with the full paint job. I found that Testors paint worked well even without a primer coat. However, the drying time was nearly 4 times what it was with any other type of paint. In addition, Testors paint did not harden very much, so damage to the painted area could easily occur.

In using acrylic paint, the most salient feature was the need for a good primer coat. Without the primer (and even with the primer to some extent), it required multiple coats of paint to cover the original colored rubber. Paint dried easily though. Primer is definitely recommended in this situation.

Q8: What is a primer coat? Is it a necessity?

A8: Another controversial question. A primer coat is a layer of paint intended to be applied first as a base coat before the real detail painting begins. Most often it is done with a light or neutral color paint. Gray is one of the more common colors, although you can buy special primer colors like white as well.

One of the purposes of the primer coat is to help later layers of paint adhere to the figure and cover old paint or exisiting plastic. Some people swear by primer coats and would not proceed without them. Others might say it is a waste of time and that the right choice of paint and some patience (or multiple coats of paint) can achieve the same end.

It isn't going to hurt to do a primer coat and may actually save time in the long run. To achieve maximum benefit from the primer coat, be sure to let your primer coat dry completely before applying other paint.

Q9: Can I spray paint figures?

A9: Yes, many brands of commercially available spray paint are very useful for customizing figures. Spray painting is an easy way to cover an entire figure with paint relatively easily and it has the added benefit of leaving no brush strokes. The same rules apply for spray painting as do with any type of painting. The primary rule is to be sure your material and paint are compatible. Testing will save many headaches if you are unsure.

In spray painting, there are several things to note. First, spray painting should always be done in a well ventilated area and away from open flames and heat sources. For example, be aware that many water heaters have pilot lights that can be ignited from errant spray paint in a garage. Follow all the manufacturers instructions regarding the use of the spray paint.

Another thing to remember is "you get what you pay for." There's a reason that one spray paint may be $2.50-$3.00 per can while another is 99 cents per can; usually, the cheaper ones aren't nearly as good. It's really worth it to spend the extra money and buy, say, Krylon rather than some "store-name" brand. You don't want the paint to be runny and cover unevenly, do you?

Remember, spray painting is hard to control and is best used for covering an entire figure or large areas. Detail painting with spray paint can be difficult. It is best to stand the figure up either with an old action figure stand if the figure has peg holes in the feet (available at flea markets, toy shows and in some currently available action figures) or by hanging the figure (either around the neck or extending one arm. Here are some general tips:

• Spray from a distance of 8-15 inches away from the figure. This will help to avoid "wet spraying" and will aid in achieving a smoother appearance.
  
• Spray an even coat of paint over the desired area in smooth strokes.
  
• Spraying a couple of lighter coats is better than one thick coat.
  
• Shake the spray can often. This may seem trivial, but you will see a difference if you do not shake often.
  
• Do not apply paint until it runs; that is, stop before there's so much paint on your figure that it's running or dripping off. Lighter is better.
  
• Allow the figure to dry completely before applying any additional coats or other paint details.

Q10: Can I airbrush figures?

A10: Yes. Although I am not personally experienced with the use of airbrushing, there are many collectors who would highly recommend this for customizing figures. Airbrush kits for models are reasonably priced and can be of great value when undertaking complicated or detailed customizing projects. [If anyone would like to comment more on airbrushing, please contact me for inclusion in the FAQ].

Q11: What is "masking" and how do I do it?

A11: Masking is the process of covering up parts of your figure that you do not wish to be painted. Masking is most commonly done with masking tape. However, some people have been known to use other materials such as Scotch tape and paper and report receiving satisfactory results. Testors also makes a product called "Parafilm M" that is often used for masking scale models.

Masking can be used to help in creating straight lines and edges on figures as well. To mask an area on a figure, first select a quality brand of tape. The reason this is important is that cheaper tapes use cheaper glues on the sticky side of the tape. This can result in an incomplete seal allowing paint to leak through the edges. In addition, residue from the tape glue can often be left after the tape is removed. Never use tape on a freshly painted or tacky surface. Good masking tape will pull the paint right off. Masking tape is best used on the original plastic and/or paint. Use some planning to build layers of masking that need to be applied, avoiding having to mask an area after it has been painted if possible. If it is not possible, make sure your paint has completely dried before applying the masking tape.

Make sure the the edges of your tape are securely fastened to the surface of the figure. Run your fingernail down the edges to insure the seal. The is some disagreement regarding when masking tape should be removed. Some advocate leaving the tape on until the paint has dried completely. My personal preference is to remove the tape while the paint is still very fresh. I have found that letting the paint dry runs the risk of pulling the paint off when the tape is removed due to paint that has dried across the masking tape seal and the figure itself.

Liberal and careful use of masking can add to the intricacies of your customization work. It can also really add to the overall presentation of the finished product.

Q12: How do I work with multiple coats of paint?

A12: The single most important thing to remember is LET THE PAINT DRY COMPLETELY BETWEEN COATS. It is a common mistake to be over anxious and try to do too much, too fast. Patience is your best weapon. Some paints on some surfaces can take well over 24 hours to completely dry (some can take literally days). If you try to paint on a coat of paint that is not completely dry, several things can happen. First, tacky paint often receives brush stroke marks, thus texturing your surface. Handling the figure can result in unwanted finger prints as well. For this reason, it is recommended that you use some sort of stand if the figure does not stand steadily on its own.

When paint is completely dry, you may re-apply another coat or add detail paint as desired.

Q13: How do I paint small details?

A13: There are several methods for painting tiny details onto already small action figures. One of the easiest methods is to use a fine tipped permanent ink marker in the desired color. Thes can be obtained in most art supply stores. The drawback to markers is that they can often smudge even long after they have been applied. The final depends on what type of surface you use the marker on. It has been reported that markers give more satisfactory results on painted areas than on plastic.

Another similar technique is to use paint pens (also available at art supply or craft shops). Paint pens allow precision application of paint. Be sure that the paint type in the pen is compatible with the base figure material.

Using fine tipped brushes is another way to add details, but does require a bit more familiarity than the pen methods. Bristles on paint brushes hold small amounts of paint and can spread during a stroke, causing paint to be spread to unwanted areas. Practice with detail painting is the best way to get a feel for what techniques work best for you.

Other implements or tools can be used with your paint for applying small details. Toothpicks, razor blades and/or exacto knives can be dipped in paint and then used to apply details in precise locations. The results of these tools varies. Toothpicks can be used to add a pupil to an eye by dipping the tip in paint and touching just the tip to the eye of the figure. Others have suggested using the head of a straight pin to do the colored part of an eye. Exacto knives can add thin, straight lines that might be difficult to achieve with a paintbrush alone.

Sculpting Materials

A14: Many times, there will be features you will wish to have on your action figure that don't exist on your base figure. A simple example of this might be armor...or even adding breasts to make a male figure into a female figure. To do this, you need some type of sculpting or modelling material.

In addition, sculpting materials are often extemely useful for making custom accessories. You can often add to existing accessories or even create completely new accessories (e.g., weapons) entirely out of a sculpting material.

Q15:What are the most popular types of sculpting materials are available? What's the difference between them?

A15: There are three main classes of sculpting materials: those that air dry, those that harden by chemical reaction, and those that need to be baked. The most common air dry material would have to be Testors Modeling Putty. It comes in a tube much like modeling glue and can be used for a variety of customizing jobs. Others have used Das Pronto modeling clay with success. For chemical reaction hardening, many people swear by Milliput. It is a two-part epoxy clay that, when the two parts are kneaded together, reacts chemically and hardens. Others have said they used plumber's putty, a two-part epoxy clay found at hardware stores. The two most popular bake materials are Sculpey and Fimo. Both need to be baked in the oven (at resonably low heat) for 20 minutes or more (depending on the size of the material to be hardened). These substances are more akin to modeling clay. They may be more suitable than the putty for larger pieces.

Q16: Won't my figure melt if I use a sculpting material that needs to be baked?

A16: The answer is yes, most definitely, your figure will eventually melt if you leave it in a significantly hot oven for too long. The best suggestion would be to try to craft any sculpted pieces so that they can be attached after baking. This avoids any danger of melting your creation. Sculpting material can be shaped and baked according the manufacturer's directions and then attached to your base figure with an adhesive (such as Super Glue). Sometimes, its not possible or desirable to make sculpted pieces and then attach them to the figure later. Fortunately, it is possible to bake action figures (referring here primarily to currently available figures) at a temperature high enough to harden the sculpting material yet not enough to damage the base figure. The key here is timing.

You need to be very vigilant in baking your figure. Keep a close eye on your creation. Follow the directions on the sculpting material as best as you can with some limitations. Many customizers believe that any temperature above 300 degrees is too high for this type of work. Estimates from several customizers have ranged from 150-275 degrees. It is also sometimes possible to trade off a longer baking time for a lower temperature.

Some general tips:

• Be sure that your oven rack is not too close to the heating elements (either top or bottom).
  
• Pre-heat the oven completely.
  
• Turn off the oven before baking is completed. This has been referred to as "coasting" and helps to prevent damage by oven reheating that will occur when you open the oven door to check the progress of your figure.
  
• Use aluminum foil to put your figure on while baking. Foil stays generally cooler than a baking pan (that retains the heat) and makes it less likely that your figure will sustain damage.
  

Do not over-bake your figure. If a figure is too hot when removed from the oven and handled immediately, there is the possibility of leaving fingerprints in the plastic. These marks are difficult to remove and add unwanted texture to the figure. If this does occur, you might try sanding the affected area with a fine grain sandpaper (finish with a buffing wheel to try to restore the sheen). If this fails or is unsatisfactory, you can fill the area with Testors putty and sand it down.

When the figure has completely cooled, you are ready to move on to aspects of the customization process.

Note: There have been a few other suggestions besides baking to harden Sculpey. Some people use a heat gun or hair dryer to harden Sculpey (be careful, though, as some heat guns go over 600 degrees F!). Others swear by boiling - yes, putting the figure in boiling water for 5-10 minutes to harden the Sculpey. You'll just have to exepriment and see what works best for you.

Q17: Can my sculpting material be painted? Can it be sanded?

Q17: Yes, you can paint most sculpting materials AFTER you have baked them or allowed them to dry completely. Some sculpting materials take paint better than others. Testors modeling putty works well with Testors enamel paint (as you might imagine). Other materials may cause the paint to take longer to dry. If this becomes a problem, a thin coating of Clear Coat finish (matte) may be helpful.

Testors Modeling Putty can definitely be sanded after it has completely dried. I am unsure about other substances and would be interested in hearing from other customizers on this point.

Specifics

A18: Accessories can make any figure more enjoyable or more detailed. My first suggestion is always to look at existing figures and see if the accessory you want is already available, packaged with another figure. No need to re-invent the wheel. If you can't find what you desire from nationally available toy lines, try shopping at the discount stores (such as the Dollar Store) or drug stores (such as Walgreens). These types of stores (and many others) often carry generic action figures that may be of lesser quality than the national brands. However, these figures can be a cheap and effective source of accessories for your custom figures.

If you do find something close, but not exactly right, remember: Accessories can be customized too! You can paint on or add sculpting material to accessories as well. Be creative. Experiment.

If you want an accessory that you know simply does not exist in any way, shap or form, then you can always sculpt it from scratch. Using the sculpting materials described above, you can make almost anything imaginable. Again, it may be helpful to have source material available for reference regarding details. Photos are most helpful.

Q19: What about costumes for old Mego figures?

A19: Costumes for Mego figures can be fairly easily sewn or made from other old or damaged Mego costumes. If you have an old costume, it is possible to take the stitching out and use it as a pattern for new clothes. It is my experience that Mego costumes cannot be dyed effectively. This holds true even when you attempt to remove the original dye with some type of dye remover or bleach. Shoes, gloves, and other accessories for Megos can sometimes be found at flea markets and secondary market toy dealers such as comic shops. If all else fails, you can often make these types of accessories just as you would with any other type of accessory.

Q20: How can I make a custom card back?

A20: Custom card backs and bubbles (or blister packs) can add to the presentation of your custom figure, though not everyone likes to make a new package. If you have a favorite picture or drawing of the character, you can use that to make a custom card back. First, carefully remove the figure from the card and bubble. Remove the bubble entirely and set it aside. An exacto knife or razor blade may be helpful in accomplishing this neatly. Then, obtain a color photocopy of the picture or photgraph (comic book covers work extremely well for this). Using glue or other adhesive, attach the photocopy to the original card. Trim the excess.

You can use Post-It(tm) brand tape to cover certain areas of the cover such as the UPC code. You can use this to make things like a company logo. Be as creative as you feel like.

Soak the detached bubble in warm soapy water to remove excess glue from the bottome edge. Scrape off remaining glue if necessary. You can place your finished figure in the bubble section and reattach it to the newly covered card with hot glue. Using an iron on low setting around the edges of the bubble may help to preserve the seal. Voila! You have a custom figure and card!

Q21: Will my custom creation be worth anything?

A21: If you are pleased with the result, then your creation will be invaluable. If you are interested in selling your creations, it remains to be see whether custom action figures will ever be heavily sought after in the collectible toy market. However, most customizers would never part with even their least favorite customization. They might help you to make one just like it or they might even do one for you if the conditions were right.

Q22: Will customizing or even just restoring an action figure reduce the value of that loose figure?

A22: Customizing, restoring or permanently altering a figure in any way will almost surely reduce the current and future value of the piece. Think carefully before doing any restoration to a piece that you consider valuable. Not only do you risk messing up the piece by your attempts at restoration, but you may compromise the financial value of the item as well. This is especially true for the restoration of old toys.

Q23: Are there any places to show off my newly created masterpieces?

A23: YES! Right here! If you have pictures of your custom figures, contact the maintainer of these pages and you can arrange to have your works displayed in our developing gallery of custom figures. We welcome all submissions. No collection is too large or too small. Single figures are great! Just send us what you have and we'll scan it in.

Of course, if you want a more traditional method that might actually lead to prizes or something like that, you could try publications like Wizard or Toy Fare. Both magazines have a "Homemade Heroes" section, but there are two main differences between them. First, Toy Fare usually has contests based on some theme (like "Make an Alien/character hybrid" or "Do a DC character in the animated style of the Batman/Superman cartoons"); Wizard's section is an open contest with no theme - they accept "all comers." Second, Toy Fare generally puts a deadline on entries for themed contests; Wizard's section is an ongoing thing rather than a formal contest, so there are no deadlines.

The mailing addresses are the same for both, although the themed Toy Fare contests usually have a slightly different addressee, so check Toy Fare before you send them anything. The address is:

Keep in mind that we are working on adding a customizing contest to the Custom Corner, so watch the main page for details!

Q24: Who do I have to thank for all this information?

This information has been accumulated and compiled by Eric G. Myers [[email protected]]

Direct and Indirect Contributors, Sources and Various Ne'er-Do-Wells:

Gregg Keefer (aka Ted Sallis) [[email protected]] for copious reference material and inspiration.

Mike Fichera [[email protected]] For beautiful pictures and recipes.

Byrt Martinez [[email protected]] For assorted suggestions from his custom figure page.

Aaron Newton [[email protected]] For inspiring me to get off my butt and actually do this page by beating me to it and putting up his own.